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    “我希望我设计的衣服可以穿很长时间,而不是两个月后就被取代。对我来说,这就是无限延续的设计本质。”-三宅一生

     

    三宅一生闭关十年不参与旗下设计,但两年前决定再战江湖,带领“reality lab"研发机构开创了女装品牌“132 5.” 那么132 5.里面的数字和空格到底代表了什么呢?数字“1”表示一块布料,“3”代表着三维立体造型,“2”则表示面料根据二维形状对折,后面的空格代表了服装制作完成到服装穿在人们身上之间的一段时间,而“5”表示的是概念可能的排列交换组合。设计灵感来于Jun Mitan研制的一款可以计算出如何将一张平面材质经折叠后在空间中形成的曲面的3D运算软件。由此 三宅一生结合折纸工艺设计多款服装,只要将看似平整的一方面料展开,就会变成衣服。服装面料采用的是回收再生聚酯纤维和多彩锡箔的复合面料。三宅一生还是将一贯的节能,环保的生态理念和时尚美感作为132 5.的品牌灵魂。

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  • 没有宇航员空降,没有金光灿灿的嘴唇,Thom Brown女装展示没有男装展上的刻意夸张,但却张扬着同一种新古典主义。也许这是对60年代的最好诠释,各种条纹花格组合大胆,蓝,白,红,灰的基调色彩搭配保守但不失浪漫,简洁裁剪线条上严谨经典。

     

  • coach的设计总监reed krakoff个人品牌全线登场。和很多大牌手袋相比,reed krakoff似乎还没有太多拥护者。欧陆经典气质的手袋线条简约颇具建筑美感,细节处理含蓄精致。

    BOXER II 6900美金

     

    PK CLUTCH 590美金

    Reed Krakoff Boxer I Satchel in Grey Ostrich, $7650 via Reed Krakoff

    Reed Krakoff Boxer I Satchel in Claret Haircalf, $1490 via Reed Krakoff

    Reed Krakoff 510 Tote II in Teal Leather, $1190 via Reed Krakoff

     

    Reed Krakoff 510 Tote I in Black Python, $2750 via Reed Krakoff

    Reed Krakoff Motocross Cadet Hobo II, $990 via Reed Krakoff

    Reed Krakoff Frame Satchel, $1390 via Reed Krakoff

  • 时尚潮流变化多端,想要走在潮人阵线前沿,又要面对经济低迷管好钱袋,怎么办?!最好的选择就是走经典路线!钱要花在刀刃上,如果买10件过了一季就弃之不用的配饰,不如合起来挑一款禁的住潮流变迁的精美设计。Style.com最近一个配饰专辑正是印证这种消费理念。编辑挑选出10件配饰,包括皮包,鞋,眼镜等,不论是款式设计或者性价比都算的上潮人的经典配饰。

    NO.1 BALENCIAGA FIRST BAG

    机车包十周年之际,Balenciaga有推出了动物皮草图案的限量版。

    NO.2 LANVIN ballet flats

    NO.3 Louis Vuitton Multicolore Monogram Bag

    2003 Marc Jacob X multitasking pop artist Takashi Murakami collabration

    NO.4 Iphone

    苹果公司在产品设计上一直走的时尚路线。但iphone能不能算是经典,恐怕要过几个月再说。实在不懂为什么这个充其量也就算个时髦玩意儿的电话怎么被放在这里?!

    NO.5 Chanel 2.55

    2005年重新登场的2.55再一次证明经典设计的永恒魅力。

    NO.6 Tom Binns 手饰

    Obama夫人是个优秀的时尚宣传员,Tom Binns其实早在2006年就得了CFDA的配饰设计大奖。

    NO.7 Chloé Paddington Bag

    当年NETaPORTER在36小时就卖出了367个Chloé Paddington(售价在1500美金左右),何等火爆!

    NO.8 Christian Louboutin platform pump

    NO.9 Goyard's Saint Louis tote

    NO.10 Ray-Ban Wayfarer Sunglasses

  • K上班一阵子了, 很少有时间再煲电话粥的东拉西扯. 她忽然传来GRARANCE DORE博客上的一篇文章要我读. 我想K是看了有些类似的共鸣.我倒是挺感慨, 自己也该更振作些. GARANCE DORE的文字描述总是很随意自然,一如她的插图, 就象与生俱来的优雅, 没什么做作. 我更喜欢SATORILIST的镜头视角,如果他也能象GARANCE DORE更多的敞开心扉就好了.

    匆促翻译的词句难免欠推敲, 读个大意吧. 我还是挺惊讶那些美丽插图, 时尚画面的后面也是个普通人,有着多数人的彷徨迷茫, 读到面试的那段, 不由的让我想到CONFESSIONS OF A SHOPAHOLIC里的绿围巾. 看了她的这段文字, 竟发现原来那个照片里散发着成熟魅力的女子竟然还有那么多的奔放热力...推荐大家多去看看她的博客:GARANCE DORE

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    译文:

    或许我找了个挺完美的暑期工作,但在那时,这些对一个充满挫折感的学生来说却未必。我一边觉得自己在大学里什么有用的东西也没学到。我一边又被自己对初涉职场的设想困扰着:在那个神秘如黑洞的职场,自己或许就此消失在穿着灰色西装上班族中了。

    我花费了大把时间跷课和周末聚会,设想着以后该做什么,搞点音乐,和好朋友搭台来场摇滚音乐会,当然这也只是玩票儿而以。但或许我也能成个专业搞音乐的,因为我真的很喜欢。即便我过的很惬意,但一想到将来还是让我慌乱,慌的让人想哭。后来,我忙着在年底前找个实习工作。 我当时是传播专业,所以我想我可以去任何地方,毕竟什么人都需要互通交流。基于对当代艺术的热爱,我得到一个本地“当代艺术博物馆”(MOCA)的面试。

    为了面试,我几乎倾尽所有买了一双靴子来装扮自己。我深深的吸了口气,走进办公室去见那个让我胆战心惊的负责人。面试很短。我礼貌的告辞后,我几乎大步跃下楼梯急着跑出去喘口气。仓促逃离之际,耳边一声“不错的靴子”。我抬起头,一个面带微笑的高个儿男子站在面前注视着我。 在我那个充斥着紧身牛仔裤摇滚歌手的世界里,他显的那么优雅。我面带绯红的回应“谢谢,但他们把我毁了” 。 他笑了笑,我跑开了。

    第二天,我的电话响起来。起初我没搞清到底是谁在和我说话,但我很快就意识到这是前一天短暂相遇的男子。他是博物馆电影院的主管,B先生。他很喜欢我的靴子,就为那么简单的瞬间灵动,他认定我是实习生的最佳人选。我猜想他可能说服了博物馆主管给我这份工作。

    一双靴子!真的!我就这么在开始在电影院工作了。

    B先生管理的剧院挺丰富多彩。他决定该上演什么剧目,每个月他会象编排菜单一样安排一组节目。每次他都会选择一个主题,然后从众多电影里筛选组织出一个精彩系列。

    我的职责就是通告媒体将在剧院上演的节目。不知不觉,我就成了剧院里新的公关。我对自己要做的还一无所知。开始那段时间挺痛苦。我枯坐桌前为我该做什么绞尽脑汁。只要B先生不在跟前,我就打电话给我的一位聪明的记者朋友救急,她就会超乎想象的耐心解释给我听。

    我诅咒我的老师竟然没教我该如何“打电话”。我正在写新闻发布稿给尽可能找到的所有媒体(那时候还没有发达的网路资讯)。我总是要等到B先生离开再给媒体记者们打电话,天呢,我面红耳赤,张口结舌,说的也尽是词不达意,特别是打给INROCKS和LIBE的时候(INROCKS, LIBE是那时候我心中的顶级媒体),我就彻底失声然后挂断电话。经典呀!但锲而不舍的数周漫长工作结束后,我的实习职位转了正职。我也更有条理,更镇定,我的努力也开始略见成效:剧院上座见涨。

    应该说和B先生共事没有完全失控的时候,我们相处融洽,彼此对疯狂到快乐都有着类似尺度,谈笑风生是常事。他很赏识我,决定让我编排自己的一组节目。他就是这么个即刻就对我充满信任的精明人,鞭策我努力工作让我看很多电影的梦想家,他总说“快点啦!这样你才知道你为什么工作!”啊,他真的很正确。

    如果我狂妄到极致,我或许会对我自己说有一天我会成为一个插图画家。 我从没上过艺术学校,和插图界我也没什么联系。我都不知道我能画些什么。真的,我一无所知。但有种强烈的意识告诉我如果没努力争取,遗憾将会一直深埋我心底。况且我已经历练成熟到去担当风险。其实更主要的是我知道如果这些都没成也不会把我搞垮,我怎么都能在公关公司找事儿做,嘿!要不我就到裸体海滩去当个冲浪教练!

    所以我决定就此开始要做个插图画家。

                                                             **********

    原文:GARANCE DORE

    Maybe I found the perfect summer job, but I was a frustrated student. I felt like I didn’t learn anything very useful in college. I was haunted by the idea of my first steps into the world of work, which seemed like a giant black hole where I would disappear into a sea of grey suits.

    I spent my time ditching classes and partying entire weekends, wondering what I’d do with my life, making music and putting together rock concerts with my best friend, which I didn’t think of as a serious activity or something we could do as a career.

    But of course it couldn’t be, because I enjoyed it.

    So I had a good time, but thinking about my future… Made me so anxious. I could cry.

    And then one day, I had to find an internship at the end of the year. I was studying communication at the time, so I could try pretty much anywhere because hey, everyone needs to communicate. And since I like contemporary art well enough, I got an interview at the MOCA in my town.

    I prettied myself up, and almost totally emptied my bank account to get a pair of boots, took a nice deep breath before entering into the director’s office who… scared the shit out of me.

    The meeting didn’t last long. I said goodbye politely and then practically leapt down the stairs to get outside to take a breath. And in my frenzied escape, I heard:

    “Nice boots.”

    I raised my head and right there in front of me, a tall, smiling man, looking straight at me. He had a rather rare elegance in my world populated by rockers in slim cut jeans. I blushed and said, “Thanks, but they ruined me!” He smiled, and I was off.

    The next day, my phone rang.

    At first I didn’t really understand who was talking to me, but then I realized it was the guy that I ran into for a second the day before. He was the director of the cinema department of the museum. His name was B. He loved my boots, and from this simple moment of inspiration, he decided I would be the perfect intern. He talked to the director of the MOCA who, I imagine, gave me away without a second thought.

    A pair of boots. Voilà. That’s how I ended up working in cinema.

    The theaters that B took care of were exciting. He decided what would be shown, and every month he put together a program the same way you put together the perfect menu. Each time, he would chose a theme, and go through tons of films, old classics or modern wonders, unknown or blockbusters, and put together the most amazing programs.

    As for me, my role was to talk about what was being shown in the press.

    Without me knowing, I was becoming the new cinema PR person.

    With absolutely no idea what I was doing.

    My first days were painful. I spent hours upon hours behind my desk trying to figure out what I was supposed to do. Every time B had his back turned, I called my best friend, who was a journalist, and way smarter than me, and she explained everything to me with more patience than I could believe.

    I cursed my teachers who didn’t teach me how to make a phone call. I was writing press releases as a compilation of all the ones I could find (and this is before the explosion of the internet!).

    I always waited for B. to leave so I could make my phone calls to journalists and oh man, I’d get so red, I could barely talk, and I’d say utter nonsense to them, especially if I called Inrocks or Libé, (these magazines were demi-gods to me at the time). I’d have total blackouts and hang up. Classy.

    But not so fast, at the end of long work weeks full of perseverance, my internship became a real job and I got more organized, less freaked out, and starting getting results: the theaters were filling up.

    There weren’t just moments of total break down, I should say. B and I got along great. Both of us had pretty much the exact same ratio of craziness to joy. We cracked up constantly and talked all the time.

    He saw something in me and decided to let me put together my own programs.

    Here was someone brilliant who immediately had faith in me. Here was a dreamer pushing me to work harder and making me go see movies, “C’mon already,” he’d say. “This way you’ll know why you’re working.” Ahah, oh but he was so right.

    What happened because of this first experience is that I realized that I’m capable of… working. And even loving what I do! I understood that with energy and desire, you learn quickly. I was starting having just a little bit of that faith in myself.

    Just enough to tell myself that maybe, maybe, maybe, if I applied myself to the point of delirium, maybe, one day, I could do what I always dreamed of doing: illustration. I never went to art school and I didn’t have a single connection in that world. I didn’t even know if I could draw.

    Well really, I knew nothing at all.

    I just had the impression that if I didn’t try it, I would always have this regret deep inside of me. I had finally grown up enough to be ready to take some risks. And above all, I knew if it didn’t work out, well, it wouldn’t kill me, you know? I could always work in PR, or be a wind surfing instructor in a nudist colony, voilà.

    So I decided to get started. I would become and illustrator.

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